Your home financing questions, answered.

A pre-qualification is a quick estimate based on the information you share with me — useful for getting oriented early. A pre-approval is the real deal: I verify your credit, income, and assets so you can shop with confidence and make an offer sellers take seriously. In a competitive market, a strong (or fully underwritten) approval is one of the best advantages you can carry.

Probably less than you think. The "20% down" rule is a myth — conventional loans can start at 3% down, FHA at 3.5%, and eligible VA and USDA buyers may put nothing down at all. Putting more down lowers your payment and can remove mortgage insurance, but it's rarely required to get started.

There's no single magic number. Many programs open up in the 580–620 range, and higher scores generally unlock better interest rates. If your score isn't where you'd like it yet, that's okay — I'll show you exactly what's helping and hurting it, plus a simple plan to improve it before you buy.

Your comfortable range comes down to four things: your income, your monthly debts, your down payment, and today's rates — plus taxes and insurance. Rather than guess, try the affordability calculator below, then I'll build you a real payment scenario. The goal isn't the biggest loan you qualify for; it's the payment that fits your life.

It's the total amount you'll bring to the closing table — your down payment plus closing costs and prepaid items, minus credits like your earnest money and any seller or lender contributions. I'll give you this figure in writing, so there are no surprises on closing day.

These are the fees to originate and finalize your loan: appraisal, title, lender, and recording fees, plus prepaid taxes and insurance. They commonly run 2–5% of the purchase price, though it varies. In many cases we can offset them with a negotiated seller credit or a lender credit — and I'll walk you through every line.

No — earnest money is a good-faith deposit you make when your offer is accepted, held safely in escrow. In most cases it's credited back to you at closing toward your down payment or closing costs. It simply shows the seller you're serious.

Since recent industry changes, how a buyer's agent is paid is negotiated up front and isn't always covered by the seller. Your real estate agent walks you through that agreement; my job is the financing impact. The key thing: agent commissions generally can't be rolled into your loan, so any portion that falls to you is paid in funds at closing. Where it's handled as a seller concession, loan programs cap how much a seller can contribute — so let's map it out early.

The right fit depends on your goals, down payment, and eligibility. Conventional — as little as 3% down; mortgage insurance is removable. FHA — 3.5% down with more flexible credit guidelines. VA — 0% down for eligible veterans and service members, no monthly mortgage insurance. USDA — 0% down in eligible areas; household income limits apply. We'll match you to the one that costs you the least over the time you plan to own.

Private mortgage insurance (PMI) protects the lender when a conventional loan starts with less than 20% down — and it's temporary. You can request removal at about 20% equity, and it falls off automatically at 22%. (FHA mortgage insurance works differently and often stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance.)

Your interest rate is the cost of borrowing the money. Your APR rolls that rate together with certain fees into one yearly percentage, so it's a handy way to compare offers apples-to-apples. When you compare lenders, look at both — plus the full fee breakdown.

Locking guarantees your rate for a set window, protecting you if rates rise before closing. The trade-off: if rates fall, you're committed to the locked rate (some locks offer a one-time float-down). The right move depends on your timeline and the market — and I'll give you a straight recommendation when it's time.

Once you're under contract, a typical purchase closes in about 30 days — sometimes faster, occasionally longer, depending on the property and program. Getting pre-approved up front is the single best way to keep things moving smoothly.